5 Days in St. Kitts & Nevis

January 22 – 26 , 2019

In 2018, I attended Taste of the Nation (Atlanta) – a charity event to raise money for No Kid Hungry, which aims to end childhood hunger in America. Needless to say, I got a little excited at the auctions and landed a decent deal on a Delta Vacations package. 
Since I had a package, I wanted to try to stretch the money as far as it would go, and go someplace I normally forgo due to the cost of the flight. (Sidenote: I prefer to spend money on activities instead of spending a lot of money on flights and hotels.) After speaking with a Delta Vacations representative a few times (they were awesome by the way), I decided to go to St Kitts. I love traveling to the Caribbean and it is a place I wanted to visit, but had yet to go because of airfare prices. After weighing lodging options, I arrived at a solid trip to St Kitts for 4 nights and 5 days of fun in the sun.

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Where I Stayed

For the accommodation portion of the Delta Vacations voucher, we were given several choices for accommodation at various price points and locations across St Kitts. If you choose a hotel that is over the dollar amount of the voucher, you simply pay the difference. But you do not get any money back for not using the full voucher. My goal was to get as close as possible to the voucher amount without going too far over, and shoot for the nicest place that fit within that range. My first choice was to stay at Belle Mont Farm, but it was over the voucher budget and not close to where I planned to spend the majority of my time. I kept Belle Mont Farm in the back of my mind for a dinner, and went with my second choice for lodging. 

St. Kitts Marriott Resort & The Royal Beach Casino

I typically gravitate towards boutique hotels or Airbnb, but you can’t knock a good deal when you get one. So I used my Delta Vacations voucher to book a 4 night stay at the St Kitts Marriott Resort. 

The hotel has 7 dining options, 3 pools, and a full service spa. There is also a golf course and casino right on the property. And although I had no idea at booking, there was a friendly cat hanging around the pool!

The room was large, clean, and quite comfortable. It even had a partial view of the pool/ocean. The room also included a mini-fridge, which is always nice for drinks. The staff were welcoming and accommodating throughout our stay. There were also representatives from Tropical Tours on property to help you book excursions if you had not already done so. 

An added bonus was that the hotel is popular and well known on the island. All of the people we worked with for our excursions were familiar with the hotel and were able to provide pick up/drop off at the Marriott. 
St Kitts Marriott Resort

Car Rental: Hertz @ St Kitts Marriott

Another perk for staying at the Marriott, was that there was a Hertz rental car office on site. While not necessary for most people, I opted to rent a car to travel to the other side of the island for dinner one night. You absolutely could take a taxi, but they would have to wait for you during dinner and bring you back. In that case, the cost of the taxi exceeded the cost of the rental car, and parking at the hotel was free, so I chose to get a rental car for a couple of days instead.

Day 1: Arrival & Dinner at Belle Mont Farm

Flying into the St Kitts airport is absolutely beautiful. The amazing views start right from the airport terminal! You know you are in for a treat when you are in awe of the views before you have even left the airport.

The Delta Vacations package also came with roundtrip airport transfers – so I made it through customs, grabbed my bags, and headed to the hotel. The transfers were provided by Tropical Tours, a local tour company that also provides excursions around the island. They were already waiting for me when I arrived, looked very professional, and made sure I had all of the return pick up information before we parted ways at the hotel.

After arriving at the hotel, I did have a bit of a wait to check-in since a large group had arrived right before me. Luckily, the spacious lobby and several check-in lines helped the process move a little more quickly. And I would say it all worked out, because by the time it was my turn, my room was ready despite being a little before check-in time. 

After check in I went ahead and made the rental car reservation and explored the hotel a little bit. Then I retreated to the room to rest and enjoy a hot shower after being on the plane. Then I got ready for my first dinner in St Kitts!

Dinner at Belle Mont Farm Kitchen

 

Belle Mont Farm is a luxury eco-hotel with a passion for sustainable living. They strive to create an environment that benefits visitors and locals alike, and provide fresh farm-to-table dining and eco-friendly activities on 400 acres of organic farmland. 

As I previously mentioned, I had considered staying at Belle Mont Farm (which is on the northern part of the island) when planning this trip. But after considering cost and the most central location for a first trip to St Kitts I decided to stay closer to town. This dinner is the main reason I opted to rent a car from the hotel – the drive to the other side of the island was fairly long, and the only way to ensure a taxi would be available would be to pay for one to wait throughout the dinner. The rental car ended up being the easiest and least expensive option.

Reservations are required for dining at the Kitchen for non-guests, and I had made reservations prior to arriving on St Kitts. Fortunately, I made the proper decision to leave the hotel early, because it was slow going on the narrow island roads, and after dark I definitely missed a turn once. 

But I was treated to a nice sunset on the drive, and got to experience the non-touristy side of the island. 

To start the meal, I chose the Roasted Butternut Cappuccino Soup and Conch Ceviche. For the main course, I had the Blackened Snapper with basmati rice, bok choy, orange gastrique, and pineapple & cucumber salsa. They also had a Herb Roasted Rack of Lamb with goat cheese creamed potatoes, baby greens, and flavors of curry for those who prefer a meat dish. I finished my meal with a dessert cake topped with fresh fruit and coffee.

The entire meal was absolutely wonderful. The atmosphere and view added to the experience. The staff were wonderful and have found the perfect balance of being available without making diners feel rushed. After the meal, I walked around and took in the views before making the drive back to the hotel for the night.

Day 2: Scuba Diving / Chinchillas / The Pavilion

Scuba Diving – Pro Divers St Kitts

We did 2 dives during the trip with Pro Divers. The first stop was at the wreck of the River Taw. The River Taw sank during a hurricane in 1981 and provides divers with the opportunity to see lobsters, octopus, and stingrays.

 The second dive site was Brimstone Shallows Reef, about 2 miles off shore. The boat is moored in about 45 feet of water, but the reef extends down a wall which plummets over 130 feet. The highlight of the second dive was the group of reef sharks that followed our dive ground around the reef. 

Not a certified scuba diver, but curious about diving? Pro Divers offers a discover scuba course for $20 at the Marriott pool. That $20 will be used as a credit if you choose to follow that with discovery ocean dives which costs $160 for 2 dives with an instructor. The Discovery ocean dives are still $160 if you do not do the pool portion first. 

Beach & Snacks at Chinchillas

After diving, I was eager to enjoy a little time at the beach, but was also in the mood for a drink and snack. After being dropped back off at the Marriott, I went down the street to Chinchillas Mexican Restaurant & Beach Bar. I hung out there for bit, and enjoyed a nice conversation with some people who just finished a cruise ship excursion and were waiting to meet up with the rest of their group to head back to the ship.

After a little beach time and a couple of drinks, I went back to the Marriott to enjoy a nice nap before getting ready for dinner.

Dinner at the Pavilion – Christophe Harbour

The Pavilion Beach Club is located in the Christophe Harbour complex, which also houses the St Kitts Park Hyatt Hotel. Normally, it is only open to club members and guests of the Park Hyatt, but on Tuesday through Saturday (5:30pm – 10pm) the Pavilion Beach Club is open to the public for dinner. Reservations are required.

Featuring open air dining with ocean views and stone fireplaces, the Pavilion was a lovely place to enjoy a nice dinner. I cannot recall exactly what I ordered, and I failed to write it down. The menu changes quite often, so the chances are it would be completely different on your trip anyway! The important thing is that it was all very good, especially the desserts. I ended up ordering 3 desserts because I couldn’t decide!

Day 3: Dune Buggy Tour / Shipwreck Bar & Grill / Pool / Blu Restaurant

Mad Max Dune Buggy Tour

My third day in St Kitts started with an awesome dune buggy tour provided by Mad Max. They offer tours and dune buggy rentals if you want to explore on your own. Each dune buggy has seating for 2 people, and if you both want a chance to drive, you can swap who is in the drivers seat about halfway through the tour. The cost of the tour is $250 per buggy (assuming one driver and one passenger). Adding a second driver is only an additional $25, which covers the cost of the required driving permit for the second person. 

For me & my travel buddy, hotel pick-up & drop-off, a 4+ hour guided tour, and the dune buggy rental for $250 was worth the cost. Compared to some other tours, $125 per person for 4 hours (or a little over $30 per hour per person) is a good deal. But at the end of the day, it is up to you to decide what makes sense based on your interests and budget! But, if you are looking for the opinion of someone who has taken the tour to help you decide, it was awesome and totally worth it!

The dune buggies were fast and a lot of fun. We were able to cover some serious ground, and even got to go up into the hills of St Kitts for amazing views. Plus, the tour guides were great. They not only gave us some interesting info about St Kitts during the stops, they also made sure everyone got all the photos that they wanted. This was one of my favorite excursions that I have done anywhere, not just in St Kitts. Tons of fun, great views, tasty snacks, well-timed breaks – it had a little bit of everything.

One of the stops we made was for snacks and photos at Timothy Hill. From the top you can see the Atlantic Ocean on one side at the Caribbean Ocean on the other… pretty incredible!

Mad Max Dune Buggies

Shipwreck Bar & Grill

One of the final stops on the dune buggy tour was a lunch stop at Shipwreck Bar & Grill. We had plenty of time to have some food, and still have time leftover to walk around and enjoy the beach. We had hoped to see some wild monkeys that are known to hang around to scavenge food, but they were not around when we stopped.

An Evening at the Marriott: Pool Time & Blu Restaurant

My original afternoon plan was to go zip-lining at Wingfield Estates. They offer an hour long “half tour” or a 2 – 3 hour “full tour”. However, the dune buggy tour took a little longer than expected, and I did not think I would be able to make the drive to Wingfield Estates in time for the afternoon session. So, after getting dropped off from the dune buggy tour, I rinsed off the dust in the shower and headed to the pool for the afternoon. Honestly, it was nice to have  a little down time and a frozen drink while I enjoyed the sun and a good book. Pretty sure I even dozed off at one point! It was so relaxing. I always have the mindset of trying to make the most of my time visiting a new place by doing as many activities as posssible, but this was nice reminder that allowing down time is also important to recharge and really enjoy a trip.

I had originally planned for to go to Mr X Shiggidy Shack for dinner because they do a bonfire on Thursday nights. But after the pool, I was in relaxation mode, and really didn’t feel like getting back out. Instead, I opted for dinner at one of the restaurants at the Marriott Resort – the oceanside seafood restaurant, Blu. My expectations when eating at a hotel restaurant are not as high as other restaurants, but Blu was surprisingly good!

Of all things, the bread basket was amazing. I couldn’t stop eating it. I was obsessed the thin crunchy breadsticks. I still think about these things.

The dinner entrees also exceeded expectations. I got scallops and my travel buddy got a mahi dish. Both were fresh and well prepared. The plating was also nice in both cases. Our waiter was very enjoyable to interact with as well. So I guess I should say the entire experience exceeded expectations. 

UPDATE: Unfortunately, BLU Restaurant is no longer open, but the Marriott at St Kitts has other restaurants such as FIRE Steak & Seafood & La Cucina Italian Restaurant. From what I have read, BLU may have merged with another one of the dining options, but I cannot find much information about it on the Marriott website. Bummer. Where am I supposed to get those thin crispy breadsticks?

Day 4: Volcano Hike / Ferry / Hermitage (Nevis)

Mount Liamuiga Volcano Hike – Grey’s Tours

The next morning I was picked up bright and early by a guide from Grey’s Island Excursions for the Mount Liamuiga volcano hike. It is a bit of a drive to the trailhead, and it gets quite hot in the Caribbean, so it is best to start the hike early. I opted for a guided hike after reading reviews online that talked about unmarked trails. I would say that was a good call for me. The trails are obvious paths, but nothing is marked, even where the trail forks and goes in multiple directions. I would have had no clue. Plus, for me, the hike was difficult enough without worrying about navigating. If you are a seasoned hiker / backpacker you could probably get away without having a guide, but I enjoyed having someone to chat with and tell me more about St Kitts and the volcano. If I am able to go again, I think I could remember the trail well enough to make the hike without hiring a guide but I am also not 100%. The volcano hike with Grey’s Island Excursions is $69 per person, and includes transportation, refreshments, and the 6-ish hour guided hike. Which is not a bad price at all considering the peace of mind, transportation, and length of the tour, so even if I could remember I think I would choose the guided option again anyway.

As we were driving to the trailhead, Mount Liamuiga became visible in the distance. Well, all except for the top which was still covered in a cloud layer. That is about the point I started questioning why in the hell I thought I could climb a 3,792 foot volcano. 

The initial part of the hike consisted of trekking through a dense forest. It was beautiful and the shade was pleasant. For whatever reason, this part was the most difficult for me. Our guide (and his 2 trainees) were super patient, as I kept needing to stop and rest. I was way more out of shape than I wanted to admit. And this was supposed to be the EASIER part of the hike.

The only thing that kept me going was sheer morbid curiosity. I’ve used that term before, but it was never so appropriate than it was on this hike. Our guide told us that the hardest part, 3 steep climbing sections, was yet to come. I was struggling so hard I just had to see what the hell he considered worse than what I was experiencing at that moment. Plus, I didn’t want to be the one to admit defeat and make anyone else have to abandon the hike early, so I was determined to finish the hike.

Between that sick curiosity and the encouragement from the guides that we could make it, I kept pushing forward. And do you want to know the funny part? I thought the “hard” part – where it got steep and you had to climb up, was not nearly as bad as the gradual incline part. Something about having to pay close attention to your next step, and having your arms helping pull you up, made it not as bad as the other part. Or maybe I am just weird. 

When we got to the rim of the volcano, I was so glad that we pushed ourselves to make it to the top. Even with the fog that day, the view was amazing. You could absolutely tell you were standing on the top of a volcano. Our guide had brought juice and a snack, which we got to enjoy while taking a rest before the trek back down. For the trek down, those steep parts were the most challenging, but not terrible. We made much better time on the way down since I didn’t have to stop nearly as often to rest.

Volcano Tour with Grey’s

Looking for an additional challenge?
As you get to the rim of the volcano, there is a trail that descends down into the crater. I was in no shape to attempt such a thing at the time, but I would totally train and consider it next time I am in St Kitts. 

Ferry Between St Kitts & Nevis

Absolutely exhausted but feeling accomplished after the volcano hike, we headed back to the hotel to shower and get ready for dinner. It is probably a good thing that I didn’t have a spare moment to sit down or I may have fallen asleep and missed the dinner reservations. 

I had wanted to make a trip to Nevis at some point in the trip, so I squeezed in a dinner based on the ferry schedule. I had a taxi drop me off at the ferry and purchased tickets to Nevis. There are different boats and companies that operate the ferries, but it was easier than I expected to purchase the appropriate tickets. Some of the ferry boats are faster than others, and they have slightly different schedules. The ferries run later on the weekends, which is how I was able to make a dinner and still get back to St Kitts on the last ferry.

Upon arriving in Nevis, I was greeted by taxi drivers assisting tourists and hoping to find fares. Being a sketched out American, I was suspicious of this behavior, thinking it was some sort of a scam to hike the fares. Couldn’t have been farther from reality, and I definitely got humbled by the experience. That’s one of the things I love about traveling – it can shake up your assumptions about how the world works. I didn’t realize I had become so jaded until someone tried to help me and I immediately assumed ulterior motives. Definitely felt like a jerk. 

So, that is how we met John Prentice. If you are ever in Nevis and need a taxi – give him a call.
John’s Taxi & Tours: 1 – 869 – 664 – 9323 
Even with me acting like a spaz because I was being paranoid and worried about missing the last ferry back to St Kitts, he was super friendly. As he was driving me to dinner, he assured me I was correct about the ferry times and that I did not need to pre-purchase a ticket, and even called to confirm the time for me. When I arrived at my destination, he got out of the taxi to speak with the owner, and arranged an appropriate time to pick us back up to ensure I didn’t miss the return ferry. At this point my mind was blown. This guy was genuinely kind, took great pride in his job, and here I was thinking it was some sort of a play to overcharge for fares.
Nope… turns out I’m just an asshole sometimes… not that I should be that surprised.

Dinner at The Hermitage

Dinner was at the Hermitage, which is a beautiful plantation turned bed & breakfast boasting the oldest wooden house in the Caribbean (built in 1670). 

The menu at the Hermitage changes every day depending on what is brought to the kitchen from local farmers and fishermen. The chefs are also local, and prepare the dishes with local techniques, including those that require the use of the only traditional wood burning oven on the island. 

Since I was eating dinner rather early (remember that part about me being worried about catching the ferry back to St Kitts), I had one of the beautiful patios off the dining room to myself. 

The Hermitage is family owned, and you get that feeling of being welcomed into someone’s home the minute you walk through the door. The owners and staff were all so wonderful, and ensured we had an amazing time even though we were not overnight guests. As we were leaving, we were greeted by other guests arriving for dinner. It seemed as though they had all started to get to know each other during their stay and we willing to welcome us into the group as well. It made us wish that we were able to stay the night!

The meal started with Hermitage’s speciality rum punch, which is made from a 400 year old recipe utilizing fresh citrus from the mountains of Nevis. It was DELICIOUS!

To start, I chose a tomato bisque. One could argue that is such a common thing to order, but I have to say, it was one of the best bisque I have ever had. I don’t know what made it so different, but it was amazing.

For our main course, I was able to try the sea bass (probably my favorite fish to eat), and a lobster dish. The food was incredible, and sealed the deal that I would have to come back to Nevis and stay at the Hermitage on another trip.

The dinners came with a rice & beans side that I could eat by the pound. It also came with a vegetable that I had never experienced before called a Christophine. (It is also called Chayote, but in Nevis they called it Christophine.) It reminded me of a zucchini but with a peppery kick. I have since found them at our local international farmers market at made them at home. 

Aside from the delicious meal, there was another unexpected treat during our time at the Hermitage – a wild monkey sighting!
The Hermitage Plantation

John picked me up after dinner right on time and we headed back to the ferry dock. He even stood in line with me to make sure I got the tickets, and showed us where to enjoy a beer while we waited for the ferry. Then he called ahead to a friend on St Kitts to make sure we had a ride arranged for the trip back to our hotel. Yup, John is amazing, and I left the experience with my eyes and heart open a little wider. And my guess – that is just how he is, and he has no idea of the impact he had – not only on my trip to St Kitts & Nevis, but in changing my perception of people in general.

Note: While it was very kind of John to help us and his friend, there are plenty of taxis hanging around at both docks. So, don’t worry – it won’t be an issue if you do not have a pre-arranged ride at either dock. You may even get lucky and meet someone who challenges your jaded world view one kind gesture at a time. Or go for the sure thing and call John if your travels take you to Nevis.

Day 5: Spa Day / Return Home

For my last day, I got up, grabbed a light breakfast at the hotel, and packed up my luggage before heading to the Marriott Spa for a massage. I timed it for the last day of the trip because I thought I would likely be sore and craving a massage after the crazy volcano hike. That assumption was 100% correct. Plus, I figured I wouldn’t have a ton of time to go exploring and make it back before Tropical Tours picked me up to go to the airport. I had no desire to rush and be stressed on the last day of vacation.

I am definitely not an expert when it comes to hotel spa services. I usually find them to be too expensive when compared to massage therapy back home. But the Delta Vacation package included 1 spa treatment and no one turns down a pre-paid spa treatment.

That being said, I did highly enjoy my experience at the Marriott Spa. You check in and are taken to the lounge area, which has lockers, showers, restrooms, etc. There were saunas and spas in there as well that you can use before or after your services. At your appointment time, you are escorted to the massage room. The massage itself was excellent. The massage therapist was skilled, professional, and friendly. After your services, you are able to head back to the lounge area to change or continue to relax in the spas until you are ready to go. I can see why people choose to budget those kind of experiences into their trips.

While I am not well versed in hotel spa experiences, I am a lover of the late check-out. I have been known to pay a little extra for one. This time I was given an extra hour at no charge, which gave me time to head back to the room and use my own shower and finish packing up before having to check out of the room. 

I grabbed a little lunch at the hotel while waiting for the ride to the airport, and arrived with plenty of time to go through customs, grab a water, and hang out until the flight. 

Final Thoughts & Other Ideas

I had a wonderful time in St Kitts & Nevis, and would recommend a trip to anyone who has the opportunity to visit. Even though it is one of the smallest countries in the world (only 261 sq km / 67.18 sq miles combined over the 2 islands), you could easily spend a week on the islands and not run out of things to do. In fact, 4 nights was not enough to scratch everything off my list.

On my next visit I would like to spend more time on Nevis (staying at The Hermitage) and spend a couple of nights relaxing on St Kitts at Belle Mont Farm. I also have a list of activities & restaurants that I would love to try that I did not have time for on this trip.

More Tips for Your Trip:

• Take Cash for Tips – We used US dollar cash tips on both our dune buggy tour and volcano tour. Our tour companies let us know up front the best way to tip and pay for tours.
• ATM in casino at the Marriott – If you forget to bring enough cash, there is an ATM in the casino at the Marriott Resort that provides cash in US dollars & EC (Eastern Caribbean dollars). 
• Plan for 1 Activity Per Day – Most of the activities are offered once (or maybe twice) per day. In the off season, it is usually only once. Plan the length of your trip accordingly. This will also alleviate stress when the “island time” schedule of your first activity goes longer than you expected.